#AHaLoInEurope: The Black Madonna in Mystical Montserrat

 

Traveling broadens your horizon. It enriches your mind and your spirit. But traveling uses up a lot of your time and treasure. It would be a waste if you missed something on your trip you should’ve seen or experienced. It happened to me several times and I regretted that so much. If you’re planning a trip, I’d like to help you avoid missing out. So, let my blog show you what to look out for. Prepare for your trip by traveling with me through this post. Or you might still be in the praying and dreaming stage. Manifesting your dream into reality starts here!

A Happy Solo in Montserrat, Spain

 

Some mountains inspire legends and folklore. Secrets supposedly hidden in their caves and crevices create an air of mystique. One such mountain is Montserrat. It exudes an air of otherworldliness. Tales of witches and fairies linked to the mountain add to its enchantment. It is not called Magic Mountain for no reason. It is even believed that somewhere within its peaks, the Holy Grail lies concealed.

 

The unique jagged rock formations from which it got its name (Montserrat literally translates to “serrated or saw-toothed mountain”) feel forbidding yet it inspires thought and spirituality. A clear depiction of this is the monument by Josep Maria Subirachs on the cliff face called “Stairway to Heaven”. The nine concrete blocks in helical form represent the philosopher Ramon Llull’s thoughts on creation and the stages of existence. It is both simple and profound.

 

The closeness of the mountain’s lofty heights to the heavens inspire mysticism. Hermits and monks who have made their home in its crags add to the air of piety.

Viewpoint of the Abbey of Montserrat 

 

Our pilgrimage destination for the afternoon we were there was the Abadia de Montserrat or Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey, a Benedictine monastery.

 

The abbey’s Basílica de Montserrat is where pilgrims have trooped to for centuries to venerate the Black Madonna.

Plateresque Revival Facade of the Basilica with Jesus & the 12 Apostles

 

The basilica’s nave is the only part of the monastery that survived a fire in 1808.

 

It holds within its heart a precious treasure, the Crucifix of Montserrat, an ivory piece sculpted by Michelangelo.

 

Enshrined in the basilica’s Throne Room is Our Lady of Montserrat. It is an ancient wooden statue believed to be carved by St. Luke, taken to Spain by St. Peter and hidden in a cave during the Moorish occupation. However, it is also claimed that the Romanesque sculpture is likely from the 12^th century. Legend has it that two children found the image in one of the caves now called Santa Cueva.

 

The image is one of the Black Madonnas of Europe, more familiarly known in Catalan as La Moreneta ("the little dark-skinned one"). She sits holding the Christ child on an ornate throne covered in Venetian mosaics. The image is protected by glass except for a small hole where pilgrims can touch her hand holding a globe.

 

Miracles have been attributed to the Black Madonna. That’s why after exiting the Chamber of the Virgin, many pilgrims petition for her intercession by lighting votive candles in the Camí de l’Ave Maria (Ave Maria’s Path). The colors of the candles represent different intentions – healing, protection, overcoming challenges.

 

Another belief that adds to Montserrat’s mystique is that it is an

energy vortex and the Circular Mosaic in the Atrium outside the basilica is a nexus point where the earth’s energy flows freely.

 

A visit to Montserrat calms the soul and connects one to the divine. It’s a mystical trek I’m blessed to have taken.

 

Tips for visitors:

1.   Take a leisurely walk from the bus park to the abbey. The uphill path has a gentle slope and there’s much to see – shops, restaurants, even local vendors on the sidewalk selling goodies like fruit and nut-filled turrones (nougat). And the walk will only take you 10 minutes.

 

2.   If you’re tired on the way back, take the free shuttle. But do beware if there are people not in your group. One of my co-pilgrims almost got pickpocketed.

 

3.   If you’re into art, feast your eyes on the artwork that is plentiful in the abbey. Notice the fine craftsmanship in the building like these doors of repoussé (hammered into relief from the reverse side) silver.

 

4.   Most importantly, don’t forget to ask for La Moreneta’s intercession. It is a rare privilege to be able to pray in front of the Madonna and Christ child’s image.

 

5.   Stand in the center of the mosaic in the Atrium. If you’re lucky, you might feel the vibrations.

*Credit to my roomie Leni for my photo with the Black Madonna.

#AHaLoInEurope: Barcelona’s Jewel – La Sagrada Familia

 

La Sagrada Familia's Door of Crowning with Thorns

Traveling broadens your horizon. It enriches your mind and your spirit. But traveling uses up a lot of your time and treasure. It would be a waste if you missed something on your trip you should’ve seen or experienced. It happened to me several times and I regretted that so much. If you’re planning a trip, I’d like to help you avoid missing out. So, let my blog show you what to look out for. Prepare for your trip by traveling with me through this post. Or you might still be in the praying and dreaming stage. Manifesting your dream into reality starts here! 

        A Happy Solo in Barcelona, Spain (Part 2)

 

“He was an architect…he wanted to build synagogues, ones with colonnades that sing, parapets that practically pray, vaunted halls that draw the soul upward to God.” – Nathaniel (The Chosen Season 2 Episode 2)

 

I’m a huge fan of The Chosen, the phenomenal show about Jesus and his disciples. So, Nathaniel’s words flashed through my mind when I beheld the splendor that is La Sagrada Familia. They describe Antoni Gaudí and his obra maestra perfectly.

La Sagrada Familia

Like I said in my last blog, La Sagrada Familia is so magnificent, it deserves a post especially dedicated to it. So come and be awed with me.  

 

But first, let me share a few facts about El Templo Expiatorio de la Sagrada Familia (The Basilica and Expiatory Church of the Holy Family).

 

The foundation of this behemoth basilica was laid in 1882. The target date for its  completion is 2026 to coincide with the centennial of the death of Antoni Gaudí, the genius behind this stunning edifice. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Works of  Antoni Gaudí and also named as a Spanish Cultural Heritage. It is the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. Due to its prolonged construction, the crane has become iconic to the building’s façade. I read a comment from a Barcelona native that if a photo does not include the crane, it is a fake or AI generated.

 

The crane is essential because the towers are still being erected. In La Sagrada Familia, it is not only the “parapets that practically pray” but its lofty towers, like upraised hands, laud the heavens with praise.

Fachada del Nacimiento (Nativity Façade)

 

Gaudí meant the basilica to be “the bible made of stone”, to tell the story of Jesus using imagery – sculptures and visual elements. And looking at the intricate details of the Nativity Façade, you will be mesmerized by how our Messiah’s early life is celebrated with the lushness of life that abounds on this earth.

 

This façade is the only side of the basilica completed during Gaudí’s lifetime. It has three portals:

 

·       Portal of Charity depicting the Birth of Jesus with the Holy Family sculpture, Choir of  Angels, Magi and shepherds. It serves as the main door.

 

·       Portal of Faith or the Faith of Mary on the right side with scenes of the Child Jesus preaching, the Visitation and the Presentation.

 

·       Portal of Hope or the Hope of Joseph on the left side showing Joseph teaching the young Jesus, their flight into Egypt and the Slaughter of the Innocents.

 

Interior

 

The basilica does not only have “colonnades that sing” but columns that magnify God’s creations. Resembling towering trees, they form a forest canopy over the nave.

 

Main Nave with Arboriform Columns

What totally captivated me about the basilica was a feature that Nathaniel missed in his description – windows that spew rainbows.

 

On the Nativity Façade side, cool greens and blues illumine the interior.

 

And on the Passion Façade side, warm reds, oranges and yellows. Awe-inspiring!

 

The line “vaunted halls that draw the soul upward to God” describes the Neo-Gothic Apse perfectly. The crucifix suspended from the golden baldachin swathed by a breathtaking tapestry of lights did make my spirit soar.

Baldachin (the canopy that covers the altar) is heptagonal shaped
to represent the 7 gifts of the Holy Spirit

 

This video I took of the interior captured an interesting fact about the basilica which makes it distinct from usual Catholic churches: there are only 4 statues. Aside from the Crucified Christ hanging from the baldachin, only the Blessed Mother, St. Joseph and St. George are represented.

Fachada de la Gloria (Glory Façade)

 

Outside, the Glory Façade is still under construction. When finished, it will be the main entrance and the most monumental of the 3 façades meant to depict Jesus’ glory and Ascension. Gaudí’s vision for it is to be bathed in a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors with a heavenly host of angels and saints. It’s a sight I fervently pray to see and one of the reasons why Barcelona made it back to my bucket list.

 

Inside, you can already see the vision shaping up. The window above the door, unlike those of the other two façades, are not colored thus creating an aura of celestial light.

 

Bronze statue of St. George, patron saint of Catalonia

The door, which I’m guessing will be the main entrance, features the Our Father in Catalan in high relief with translations of “Our Father” and “Give us this day our daily bread” engraved around it in 50 languages including Filipino. The handles are the letters “A” and “G” (initials of Antoni Gaudí).

 

Our group had another “Proud Pinoy” moment when our tour guide pointed out the holy water fonts. Made from giant clam shells, they were a gift from the Philippines. The markers stated, “Alay ng Sambayanang Pilipino”. Imagine a piece of our country contributing to this grandeur.

 

Fachada de la Pasión (Passion Façade)

 

Stepping out of the church to view the Passion Façade, we felt a completely different vibe. Its harsh angular lines and severe images evoked the pain and suffering of Jesus’ last days on earth.

 

Gaudí included skeletal forms in his design. He wanted it to be “hard, bare and made of bones”.

Skeletal Pillars of the Passion Façade

 

Cast bronze door inscribed with the text in Catalan of the Passion of Christ
according to the Gospels of Matthew and John

Sanhedrin Trial of Jesus

Kiss of Judas and a Magic Square that adds up to 33 across or down

La Sagrada Familia was not just a sight but an experience – one of joy, of glory and of sorrow. It is a place you must visit at least once in your lifetime.

To fully embed that experience in my heart, I painted irises inspired by the bronze door of the Nativity portals which was designed by Japanese sculptor Etsuro Sotoo. It featured delicate flowers, leaves and whimsical creatures nestled among them.

Postscript: I was not happy with the original painting that I posted here so I made a lighter, airier version. In the first painting, I tried to stay true to the model set in bronze, to capture its metallic, harder lines but got lost along the way (part of my journey of #10000Hours). This new version is more in tune with the celestial aura of the Glorious Façade, so I dubbed it “Gloriosa Iris de la Sagrada Familia”.