Holy Land Pilgrimage: Footprints in the Holy Land

 

 As I was preparing this blog about the 7^th day of our Holy Land Pilgrimage, I prayed for inspiration on how I can make a cohesive thread for the places we visited. At first glance, our itinerary for Jerusalem seemed quite random. God inspired me to write this poem by following the path we took.  

Jesus left His footprints for us to follow. 

He taught us to keep Our Father’s name hallow.

Under the olive trees, He poured out His sorrow.

Still, He gave His life and saved our tomorrow.

Deny not His friendship lest life be hollow.

 Then I saw how clearly He had ordered that day.

Jesus left His footprints for us to follow.

Our morning was spent in the Mount of Olives. First stop was the Chapel of the Ascension. It is believed to be the spot where Jesus ascended into heaven.

 

Inside this small chapel is a slab of stone called the Ascension Rock. Pilgrims venerate this rock because it is said to bear the impression of Jesus’ right footprint.

 

He taught us to keep Our Father’s name hallow.

Next, we visited the Church of the Pater Noster.

 

Tradition holds that Jesus taught His disciples the Our Father in this grotto under the church.

 

The church’s cloister displays colorful ceramic plaques on the walls bearing the Lord’s Prayer in 140 languages and dialects including one in Tagalog.

 

Then we made our way down the extremely steep Palm Sunday Road. This is where Jesus’ Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem took place. (Tip for super senior pilgrims: make sure you have an able-bodied companion who can help you walk down safely. A very helpful community brother had to hold on to Papa’s leather belt so he wouldn’t do a Jack and Jill tumble down the hill.)

 

Under the olive trees, He poured out His sorrow.

Midway down the road is a quaint teardrop-shaped church called the Dominus Flevit (Latin for “The Lord wept”) where we heard mass.

 

Jerusalem with the imposing Dome of the Rock
as viewed from the Dominus Flevit picture window right behind the altar

At this spot, Jesus wept over the future destruction of Jerusalem. The shape of the church was designed in remembrance of the tears of Jesus.

 

Dominus Flevit ct www.HolyLandPhotos.org

After mass, we continued the walk downhill to the Sanctuary of Gethsemane where the Garden of Olives is located. There we saw 1,600-year-old olive trees and one planted by Pope Paul VI during his visit.

 

It was here, at the Basilica of the Agony (also known as The Church of All Nations) that the Agony in the Garden happened. In front of the altar is the Rock of Agony where Jesus prayed:

“My Father, if it is possible, let this cup pass from me. Yet not as I will but as you will.”  - Matthew 26:39

 

Top photo: Church of All Nations or the Basilica of the Agony
Bottom photo: Rock of Agony

In one of his talks at The Feast, Bro Arun Gogna, our tour leader, mentioned that Jesus could have escaped because there were places He could hide in the garden and exit unnoticed. Yet, He chose to be captured for our sake.

 

Still, He gave His life and saved our tomorrow.

After lunch, we headed to Mount Zion and visited the Church of Dormition where Christian tradition holds that the Virgin Mary died and was assumed into heaven. 

 

In its crypt is the reclining statue of Mary.

We also got to see King David’s Tomb.

 

In an upper room in the same building is the Room of the Last Supper or the Cenacle.

 

It doesn’t look like much, but it is one of the holiest places for Christians because this building is believed to be on the site where the Holy Eucharist was instituted – a foreshadowing of Christ giving up His mortal body and pouring out His blood for mankind.

Deny not His friendship lest life be hollow.

“But he denied it in the sight of them all, saying, 'I do not know what you are saying.'” - Matthew 26:70

The last church on our itinerary is most unique being the only church in the world with a rooster above the cross on its roof. The Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu (cockcrow in Latin) was built on the site of High Priest Caiaphas’ palace to commemorate the denial of Jesus by St. Peter.

 

But more than Peter’s disgrace, the church is a memorial to a great apostle’s repentance and reconciliation with the Lord. The golden rooster is a reminder that even if we commit the gravest sin, we can still repent and live according to God’s will.

 

Beside the church are the Holy Steps, an ancient staircase that leads down to the Kidron Valley. Many Christians believe Jesus followed this path down to Gethsemane on the night of His arrest. 

 

We ended the day by viewing the dungeon in the underground caves where Jesus must have been incarcerated. Tracing the footsteps of Jesus is not an easy path to follow but it leads to a full and fulfilled life.

Holy Land Pilgrimage: The Paean that is Petra

The iconic Treasury in Petra, Jordan

Petra. A pre-historic Nabataean caravan city half-built, half-carved into pink sandstone cliffs. It is one of the New 7 Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage site. And, for those who enjoy adventure movies like me, it’s also interesting to note Petra had a stellar role in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Petra was not part of our pilgrimage because it was not mentioned in the bible as a place Jesus walked through. Britannica, however, mentions in their website that “It was purported to be one of the places where Moses struck a rock and water gushed forth.” It was included in our itinerary because we were already in Jordan, and we couldn’t miss seeing this wondrous sight. It may not be a religious site, but still, it is a paean to God’s majesty. Gazing upon those cliffs sculpted by wind and water, I could only feel awe for God’s work.

Bro Arun Gogna, our tour leader, gave us a mantra during our pre-departure orientation: “We are pilgrims, not tourists.” But for this trip to Petra, he said we can be tourists. His suggestion though was for us to offer the long hike as a sacrifice for the people who requested prayers from us. From time to time, I strayed from our group and offered my aching leg muscles as my sacrifice for family and friends back home. It felt good to take thoughts of them with me on that trek.

And it was a long trek. From the Wadi Musa Visitor’s Center, we trudged through Bab As-Siq, a 2-kilometer dusty trail.

 

Bab As-Siq

I was tempted to just ride the carriage with Papa and the rest of the group not fit to walk the distance.

 

Carriage to Petra

But I’m glad I decided to walk. Otherwise, I would not have been able to relish the sight of the interesting structures along the way

 

Carved buildings along Bab As-Siq

like the Obelisk Tomb.

 

Obelisk Tomb

Further down, we entered a winding gorge called Al Siq which is the main entrance to the city.

 

Al Siq

Within this narrow canyon, we beheld more wonders: unusual rock formations like the one that looked like an elephant, tombs carved into the cliffside, giant cube sentinels, partly eroded sculptures and remains of clay pipes that used to bring water to the city.

 

Remains of a Sculpture

I also got the chance to photograph some of the denizens of Petra like the soldiers in ancient Nabataean garb 

Nabataean Soldiers

and a Bedouin playing the rebab (a violin-like musical instrument) and his daughter.

Bedouin playing a rebab and his daughter

 

I can’t fully describe how amazed I was as I stepped out of the canyon and beheld Al-Kazneh or the Treasury, Petra’s most famous icon. That majestic structure, a 45-meter-high temple, was ornately carved into the cliff as a tomb for Nabatean King Aretas III.

 

Al-Kazneh

But that was not all. Along the Street of Facades there were similar structures, though not as grand. We didn’t have much time to linger but we still got to view the tombs in the Theater Necropolis and the Petra Theater, an amphitheater carved out of solid rock.

 

The tombs of Theater Necropolis

Not to be outdone by these structures carved by man was the natural grandeur of the cliffs that rose to kiss the blue skies.

 

A youth serenely enjoying his lofty perch on one of the cliffs of Petra

How glorious it is when God and man create things together. Petra is a song of praise to God. My heart exultantly joined in that paean as I thanked God for bringing me to this wondrous place and on my birthday at that. 

Holy Land Pilgrimage: Beyond the Jordan

Serpentine Cross in Mt. Nebo, Jordan

As a travel bug, it’s such a treat for me to add countries I’ve visited to my list. In this pilgrimage, I ticked off 3 more countries: Israel, Jordan, Palestine.

On the 5^th day of our pilgrimage, we crossed the border at Sheik Hussein Bridge to Jordan.

The first important site that we passed was Tell Al-Kharrar, also known as Jabal Mar-Elias, (Elijah’s Hill). Tradition holds it was here Elijah was taken up to heaven by a whirlwind in a chariot of fire. Along the road stands a mural to commemorate this together with another of Pope John Paul II with his message to the people of Jordan when he visited in the year 2000.  

Tell Al-Kharrar 

 

Then we moved on to our main destination for the day: the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized.

 

“Then Jesus came from Galilee to John at the Jordan, in order to be baptized by him.” - Matthew 3:13

 

Our Jordanian guide told us there’s a debate about the exact location of Jesus’ baptism. Both Israel & Jordan claim it happened on their side of the river. However, Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Al Maghtas or Bethabara) has been declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage site authenticating Jordan’s claim. UNESCO’s website says it “is considered by majority of Christian Churches to be the location where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.” The early church fathers had built churches on that side, and it was here where Pope John Paul II made a visit. That blessing by the Vatican gave the Jordanian claim added weight. 

Bethany Beyond the Jordan or Al Maghtas

We trekked through a winding dirt trail amidst bushes that looked as parched as we were and passed ruins of ancient churches.

 

The 15-minute walk brought us to the Jordan River to the spot where John baptized Jesus.

Baptismal Site along the Jordan River in Al Maghtas

 

Right in the middle of the murky waters of the Jordan River a demarcated barrier had been set up and no one is allowed to cross to the other side. Both countries have their own spot for pilgrims to experience the baptism. Bethany Beyond the Jordan exuded a more serene atmosphere with its simple wooden structure. Across the Jordan, the Qasr al-Yahud Baptismal Site on the Israeli-occupied side had a more commercial vibe to it.

Qasr-al Yahud Baptismal Site and the murky waters of Jordan River

We felt blessed to be where we were. Some of us became emotional as Bro Arun Gogna, our Feast Builder and tour leader, poured water on our heads during the baptism. I couldn’t explain why I became teary-eyed when it was my turn. I guess I was overwhelmed that I was going through the same rite Jesus went through at the same spot where the heavens opened, and God declared Him as His beloved son. I felt I, too, am God’s beloved.

Our last stop for the day was Mount Nebo (Khirbet al-Mukhayyat) where a beautiful church has been built as a memorial for Moses. On the path leading to the church there’s a huge sculpture called the Road of Peace. It is another commemorative marker for Pope John Paul II’s visit.

Road of Peace sculpture in Mt. Nebo

An imposing metal cross with a serpent entwined around it towers on the spot where Moses was shown the Promised Land. The Serpentine Cross visually merges the healing bronze serpent of Moses and the Crucifixion of Jesus. I was blessed to get a beautiful shot of it at sunset. (Cover photo)

 

Inside the Memorial Church or the Basilica of Moses on Siyagha (highest point) are the archeological remains of a Byzantine basilica. Its Diakonikon Baptistery houses some of the best mosaics in Jordan.

Basilica of Moses, Mt. Nebo, Jordan

Bro Arun gave us an interesting insight about why Moses did not enter the promised land. He might have opted not to go because he was already comfortable where they were. After all, they had been there for 40 years. Bro Arun also said, “Blessings are disguised as responsibilities. If you are willing to receive blessings, you must go out of your comfort zone.” 

View of the Promised Land from Mt. Nebo

Holy Land Pilgrimage: Annunciation to Transfiguration

Church of the Annunciation

 She said “Yes”.

 

“Behold, I am the handmaid of the Lord. May it be done to me according to your word.” – Luke 1:38

 

These were Mary’s first words recorded in the bible and this is where it happened – the childhood home of Mary in Nazareth. The remains of her home are now preserved in the crypt of the Church of the Annunciation. This magnificent church pays homage to the humble maiden whose singular act of obedience changed the course of our faith – from its Madonna Lily-shaped dome to the floor-to-ceiling icons made and donated by different nations that adorn its lofty walls. It is awe-inspiring.

Images of Mary on the walls of the upper church

Awe changed to gratitude upon my descent to the lower church, to the Grotto of the Annunciation where the Archangel Gabriel appeared to Mary.  The altar in the middle contains this inscription: “Verbum Caro Hic Factum Est” (The Word was made flesh here). As I prayed in front of the grilled gate that protects the room, I thanked our Blessed Mother for her willingness to be God’s vessel. What our tour guide said rang true for me: this is why she is so well-loved by Catholics. We honor her for her role in man’s redemption.

Grotto of the Annunciation

Out in the courtyard, we viewed the Gallery of Madonnas. Like those in the upper church, the icons were mostly mosaics depicting Marian devotions from around the globe. Our group had a “proud to be Filipino” moment. Right by the entrance gate across the main door is a beautiful mural from the Philippines.

Mural from the Philippines
Courtyard Gallery of Madonnas

Just a short distance away from the Church of the Annunciation is the much smaller and somber Church of St. Joseph or the Church of St. Joseph’s Carpentry. It is built over the remains of the Church of Nutrition, a Crusader church, and over a cave system. In its crypt is the House of the Holy Family where it is believed they lived after their return from Egypt.

House of the Holy Family

The stained-glass windows depict scenes in the life of St. Joseph like his marriage to Mary.

Marriage of Mary & Joseph
Stained glass window at the Church of St. Joseph

 

It also displayed paintings of the Holy Family’s life. I was particularly charmed by the one with the young Jesus helping Joseph in his carpentry shop.

Holy Family in Joseph's Carpentry Shop

Then she said, “Please.”

 

If Mary’s first of seven words recorded in the bible were spoken at her house, her last two were spoken at our next stop, in Cana.

 “They have no more wine.” “Do whatever he tells you.”

 These verses are part of the gospel of John 2:1-11 the whole of which is inscribed on the walls along the road leading to the Wedding Church.

 

Walls in Cana 

It was not yet His time, but the dutiful son succumbed to His mother’s “Please”. Though unspoken in the bible, there must have been some form of “please” from her. The Wedding at Cana episode in The Chosen portrayed this beautifully. I always play that scene in my head every time I ask Mama Mary to intercede for my petitions. Jesus just can’t say “No” to her. Mary’s words also remind me to follow whatever Jesus tells me to do in any circumstance.

The Cana experience would not be complete without a wedding, so we had one. It was really a renewal of vows for the two couples in our group. We also got to see the jars that may have been like the ones Jesus asked to be filled with water.

 

Wedding Church

After lunch in Haifa, we visited Stella Maris Church where there was a memorial for Elijah, a venerated cave under the altar. 

Stella Maris Church

Across the church is the San Francisco Observatory. It was to this area Elijah sent his servant to look for clouds during the drought. We had a sweeping view of the Mediterranean at a spot where he could have stayed to look for a sign of rain.

 

View of the Mediterranean from Haifa

Mt. Tabor at dusk was our last stop for Day 4 of our pilgrimage. I’m glad we were there at the last hour. Aside from having less people around, the church awash with light was a sight to behold.

Basilica of  Transfiguration

 

It was at the Basilica of Transfiguration that I had my second “tracing Jesus’ footsteps” moment. At its crypt is an altar and fragments of a wall of a Byzantine church. Tradition holds that the rock floor is where Jesus stood during the Transfiguration. Our preacher, Bro Arun Gogna said Jesus knew the horrible death He was facing. Letting his apostles witness the transfiguration was His way of giving them hope.

Crypt of the Basilica of Transfiguration