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| Serpentine Cross in Mt. Nebo, Jordan |
On the 5th day of our pilgrimage, we crossed the border at Sheik Hussein Bridge to Jordan.
The first important site that we passed was Tell Al-Kharrar, also known as Jabal Mar-Elias, (Elijah’s Hill). Tradition holds it was here Elijah was taken up to heaven by a whirlwind in a chariot of fire. Along the road stands a mural to commemorate this together with another of Pope John Paul II with his message to the people of Jordan when he visited in the year 2000.
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| Tell Al-Kharrar |
Then we moved on to
our main destination for the day: the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized.
“Then Jesus came from
Galilee to John at the Jordan, in order to be baptized by him.” - Matthew 3:13
Our Jordanian guide told us there’s a debate about the exact location of Jesus’ baptism. Both Israel & Jordan claim it happened on their side of the river. However, Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Al Maghtas or Bethabara) has been declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage site authenticating Jordan’s claim. UNESCO’s website says it “is considered by majority of Christian Churches to be the location where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.” The early church fathers had built churches on that side, and it was here where Pope John Paul II made a visit. That blessing by the Vatican gave the Jordanian claim added weight.
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| Bethany Beyond the Jordan or Al Maghtas |
We trekked through a winding
dirt trail amidst bushes that looked as parched as we were and passed ruins of
ancient churches.
The 15-minute walk
brought us to the Jordan River to the spot where John baptized Jesus.
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| Baptismal Site along the Jordan River in Al Maghtas |
Right in the middle of
the murky waters of the Jordan River a demarcated barrier had been set up and
no one is allowed to cross to the other side. Both countries have their own
spot for pilgrims to experience the baptism. Bethany Beyond the Jordan exuded a
more serene atmosphere with its simple wooden structure. Across the Jordan, the
Qasr al-Yahud Baptismal Site on the Israeli-occupied side had a more commercial
vibe to it.
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| Qasr-al Yahud Baptismal Site and the murky waters of Jordan River |
We felt blessed to be where we were. Some of us became emotional as Bro Arun Gogna, our Feast Builder and tour leader, poured water on our heads during the baptism. I couldn’t explain why I became teary-eyed when it was my turn. I guess I was overwhelmed that I was going through the same rite Jesus went through at the same spot where the heavens opened, and God declared Him as His beloved son. I felt I, too, am God’s beloved.
Our last stop for the day was Mount Nebo (Khirbet al-Mukhayyat) where a beautiful church has been built as a memorial for Moses. On the path leading to the church there’s a huge sculpture called the Road of Peace. It is another commemorative marker for Pope John Paul II’s visit.
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| Road of Peace sculpture in Mt. Nebo |
An imposing metal cross with a serpent entwined around it towers on the spot where Moses was shown the Promised Land. The Serpentine Cross visually merges the healing bronze serpent of Moses and the Crucifixion of Jesus. I was blessed to get a beautiful shot of it at sunset. (Cover photo)
Inside the Memorial
Church or the Basilica of Moses on Siyagha (highest point) are the archeological
remains of a Byzantine basilica. Its Diakonikon Baptistery houses some of the
best mosaics in Jordan.
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| Basilica of Moses, Mt. Nebo, Jordan |
Bro Arun gave us an interesting insight about why Moses did not enter the promised land. He might have opted not to go because he was already comfortable where they were. After all, they had been there for 40 years. Bro Arun also said, “Blessings are disguised as responsibilities. If you are willing to receive blessings, you must go out of your comfort zone.”
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| View of the Promised Land from Mt. Nebo |
