Saturday, May 18, 2024

Holy Land Pilgrimage: Genesis

 



“In the beginning was the Word, and the Word was with God, and the Word was God.” John 1:1

 

Day 9 of our pilgrimage was a peek into where things began, a genesis of sorts. Its highlights were a look at the life of Abraham and a glimpse at where Jesus was born.

 

Israel Museum

 

I adore miniatures. I have quite a collection of these tiny things that I picked up in my travels and some that were given to me by family and friends as souvenirs from their trips. So you can imagine my excitement when we visited the Israel Museum and I beheld a scale model of Jerusalem! The model is based on the Second Temple Period. It was a feast for the eyes of a miniature enthusiast like me. More importantly, it gave me a visual overview of Jerusalem in the time of Jesus.

Israel Museum Scale Model of Jerusalem
 

Another interesting feature of the museum is the Shrine of the Book. It is an urn-shaped building where the Dead Sea Scrolls and artifacts discovered at Masada are kept. The design of the shrine is apt as it resembles the pot where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. Unfortunately, I do not have photos of the scrolls and the building interior as picture-taking is not allowed to preserve the artifacts.


Shrine of the Book


 

Genesis Land

 

After the museum, we were given a treat that I will never forget. We had lunch with Abraham in Genesis Land! What an experience!

 

Genesis Land is an oasis in the heart of the Judean desert, on the way to the Dead Sea. Eliezer, Abraham’s “main-servant”, greeted us as we trooped in to the reception area. He was dressed as we would imagine any biblical manservant should be. He oriented us about life during biblical times. Later, he asked us to don tunics to cover traces of our modern-day habiliments.


With Eliezer
 

He then led us out to “meet” our transport because we were going further into the desert to Abraham’s tent. Lounging under the noon-day sun waiting for us were camels!


Meeting our ride
 

Well, they were only for the intrepid souls. More timid ones can take the golf carts. I was feeling adventurous and didn’t want to pass up on what might be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so I mounted one of the camels together with a co-pilgrim. I was being lulled by the gentle swaying of our ship of the desert until the path slithered to the very edge of a cliff. Then fear gripped us. A misstep by our camel could send us careening down the cliff. It did not help that Bro Arun was taking a video of us and jokingly prompted us to say our last words to our family.

 

By God’s grace, we reached Abraham’s Tent with no mishaps. Abraham warmly welcomed us and ushered us to sit on the floor on cushions around a low table. (The super seniors got to sit on chairs in consideration of their joint pains). Abraham graciously served us lunch. The food was sumptuous, authentic Mediterranean fare though I’m not sure if the dishes dated back to the real Abraham’s time.

 

Abraham serving lunch in his tent


Replete with the delicious lunch, it was time to get back on our camels for another terror-gripped ride along the cliff-side. But it was all worth it because I was given a professional camel-rider license complete with my name written in Hebrew.


My Camel Rider License


 

Shepherds’ Field

 

In Siyar el-Ghanam (which means Place for Keeping Sheep) is the village of Beit Sahour. It’s around 4 kilometers from the where the Nativity took place and where Shepherds’ Field sits. Here, we visited the Chapel of the Angels also known as the Chapel of Shepherds’ Field or the Sanctuary of Gloria in Excelsis Deo. The 5 apses of the church mimic a nomadic tent reminiscent of where the herders would take shelter as they tend to their sheep. It is where the angels, according to Catholic tradition, heralded the good news of Christ’s birth to them. Cast in gold on the dome above the altar are the words of the angels: Gloria in Excelsis Deo.


Chapel of the Angels
 

Beneath the main chapel is an ancient cave with soot-blackened ceiling where shepherds may have stayed. It has been converted into the Cave Chapel where pilgrims can hold services.

 

Church of the Nativity

 

More than being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Church of the Nativity is, for me, the Holy of Holies. It is here where mankind’s salvation began. The most profound description of the church for me is “where heaven meets earth”.


Church of the Nativity
 

We were blessed that our hotel was just near the church. We walked to Manger Square and made our way to the church which, according to Google, “is the oldest site continuously used as a place of worship in Christianity, and the basilica is the oldest major church in the Holy Land.”

 

Like the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, this church has mixed affiliations. Here it is mainly Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Armenian Apostolic, with a minority of Coptic Orthodox and Syriac Orthodox. The main basilica is maintained by the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate.

 

Bending low, we entered the church through the Door of Humility which is about 4 feet high. Originally, it was so designed to prevent marauders from entering the church on horseback. But maybe, by God’s design, it is to remind pilgrims to approach this place with humility and bend our knees in submission to God’s will.


Door of Humility


As we straightened up, our eyes were drawn to traces of the medieval golden mosaics on the wall lit by sanctuary lamps. We joined the long queue of people going down to the Grotto of the Nativity, located beneath the main altar. The long wait gave us time to inspect the Iconostasis, a wall of icons and religious paintings which separated the nave from the sanctuary.

 

I was disappointed that the long line of people waiting behind me prevented me from truly savoring the experience of being where our Savior was born. But I still felt blessed to be able to touch the stone in the middle of the 14-point silver star. The stone is said to be the one where Mary laid Jesus after his birth.

 

I pensively made my way out of the grotto, taking time to peek at the original 4th century mosaic from the Constantinian basilica and thanking God for the chance to walk back through history, His Story.

 

To be in Bethlehem on Christmas Eve is now in my bucket list. I pray for peace in the Holy Land that God may fulfill that dream for me.