Holy Land Pilgrimage: The Paean that is Petra

The iconic Treasury in Petra, Jordan

Petra. A pre-historic Nabataean caravan city half-built, half-carved into pink sandstone cliffs. It is one of the New 7 Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage site. And, for those who enjoy adventure movies like me, it’s also interesting to note Petra had a stellar role in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Petra was not part of our pilgrimage because it was not mentioned in the bible as a place Jesus walked through. Britannica, however, mentions in their website that “It was purported to be one of the places where Moses struck a rock and water gushed forth.” It was included in our itinerary because we were already in Jordan, and we couldn’t miss seeing this wondrous sight. It may not be a religious site, but still, it is a paean to God’s majesty. Gazing upon those cliffs sculpted by wind and water, I could only feel awe for God’s work.

Bro Arun Gogna, our tour leader, gave us a mantra during our pre-departure orientation: “We are pilgrims, not tourists.” But for this trip to Petra, he said we can be tourists. His suggestion though was for us to offer the long hike as a sacrifice for the people who requested prayers from us. From time to time, I strayed from our group and offered my aching leg muscles as my sacrifice for family and friends back home. It felt good to take thoughts of them with me on that trek.

And it was a long trek. From the Wadi Musa Visitor’s Center, we trudged through Bab As-Siq, a 2-kilometer dusty trail.

 

Bab As-Siq

I was tempted to just ride the carriage with Papa and the rest of the group not fit to walk the distance.

 

Carriage to Petra

But I’m glad I decided to walk. Otherwise, I would not have been able to relish the sight of the interesting structures along the way

 

Carved buildings along Bab As-Siq

like the Obelisk Tomb.

 

Obelisk Tomb

Further down, we entered a winding gorge called Al Siq which is the main entrance to the city.

 

Al Siq

Within this narrow canyon, we beheld more wonders: unusual rock formations like the one that looked like an elephant, tombs carved into the cliffside, giant cube sentinels, partly eroded sculptures and remains of clay pipes that used to bring water to the city.

 

Remains of a Sculpture

I also got the chance to photograph some of the denizens of Petra like the soldiers in ancient Nabataean garb 

Nabataean Soldiers

and a Bedouin playing the rebab (a violin-like musical instrument) and his daughter.

Bedouin playing a rebab and his daughter

 

I can’t fully describe how amazed I was as I stepped out of the canyon and beheld Al-Kazneh or the Treasury, Petra’s most famous icon. That majestic structure, a 45-meter-high temple, was ornately carved into the cliff as a tomb for Nabatean King Aretas III.

 

Al-Kazneh

But that was not all. Along the Street of Facades there were similar structures, though not as grand. We didn’t have much time to linger but we still got to view the tombs in the Theater Necropolis and the Petra Theater, an amphitheater carved out of solid rock.

 

The tombs of Theater Necropolis

Not to be outdone by these structures carved by man was the natural grandeur of the cliffs that rose to kiss the blue skies.

 

A youth serenely enjoying his lofty perch on one of the cliffs of Petra

How glorious it is when God and man create things together. Petra is a song of praise to God. My heart exultantly joined in that paean as I thanked God for bringing me to this wondrous place and on my birthday at that. 

Holy Land Pilgrimage: Beyond the Jordan

Serpentine Cross in Mt. Nebo, Jordan

As a travel bug, it’s such a treat for me to add countries I’ve visited to my list. In this pilgrimage, I ticked off 3 more countries: Israel, Jordan, Palestine.

On the 5^th day of our pilgrimage, we crossed the border at Sheik Hussein Bridge to Jordan.

The first important site that we passed was Tell Al-Kharrar, also known as Jabal Mar-Elias, (Elijah’s Hill). Tradition holds it was here Elijah was taken up to heaven by a whirlwind in a chariot of fire. Along the road stands a mural to commemorate this together with another of Pope John Paul II with his message to the people of Jordan when he visited in the year 2000.  

Tell Al-Kharrar 

 

Then we moved on to our main destination for the day: the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized.

 

“Then Jesus came from Galilee to John at the Jordan, in order to be baptized by him.” - Matthew 3:13

 

Our Jordanian guide told us there’s a debate about the exact location of Jesus’ baptism. Both Israel & Jordan claim it happened on their side of the river. However, Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Al Maghtas or Bethabara) has been declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage site authenticating Jordan’s claim. UNESCO’s website says it “is considered by majority of Christian Churches to be the location where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.” The early church fathers had built churches on that side, and it was here where Pope John Paul II made a visit. That blessing by the Vatican gave the Jordanian claim added weight. 

Bethany Beyond the Jordan or Al Maghtas

We trekked through a winding dirt trail amidst bushes that looked as parched as we were and passed ruins of ancient churches.

 

The 15-minute walk brought us to the Jordan River to the spot where John baptized Jesus.

Baptismal Site along the Jordan River in Al Maghtas

 

Right in the middle of the murky waters of the Jordan River a demarcated barrier had been set up and no one is allowed to cross to the other side. Both countries have their own spot for pilgrims to experience the baptism. Bethany Beyond the Jordan exuded a more serene atmosphere with its simple wooden structure. Across the Jordan, the Qasr al-Yahud Baptismal Site on the Israeli-occupied side had a more commercial vibe to it.

Qasr-al Yahud Baptismal Site and the murky waters of Jordan River

We felt blessed to be where we were. Some of us became emotional as Bro Arun Gogna, our Feast Builder and tour leader, poured water on our heads during the baptism. I couldn’t explain why I became teary-eyed when it was my turn. I guess I was overwhelmed that I was going through the same rite Jesus went through at the same spot where the heavens opened, and God declared Him as His beloved son. I felt I, too, am God’s beloved.

Our last stop for the day was Mount Nebo (Khirbet al-Mukhayyat) where a beautiful church has been built as a memorial for Moses. On the path leading to the church there’s a huge sculpture called the Road of Peace. It is another commemorative marker for Pope John Paul II’s visit.

Road of Peace sculpture in Mt. Nebo

An imposing metal cross with a serpent entwined around it towers on the spot where Moses was shown the Promised Land. The Serpentine Cross visually merges the healing bronze serpent of Moses and the Crucifixion of Jesus. I was blessed to get a beautiful shot of it at sunset. (Cover photo)

 

Inside the Memorial Church or the Basilica of Moses on Siyagha (highest point) are the archeological remains of a Byzantine basilica. Its Diakonikon Baptistery houses some of the best mosaics in Jordan.

Basilica of Moses, Mt. Nebo, Jordan

Bro Arun gave us an interesting insight about why Moses did not enter the promised land. He might have opted not to go because he was already comfortable where they were. After all, they had been there for 40 years. Bro Arun also said, “Blessings are disguised as responsibilities. If you are willing to receive blessings, you must go out of your comfort zone.” 

View of the Promised Land from Mt. Nebo

Holy Land Pilgrimage: Annunciation to Transfiguration

Church of the Annunciation

 She said “Yes”.

 

“Behold, I am the handmaid of the Lord. May it be done to me according to your word.” – Luke 1:38

 

These were Mary’s first words recorded in the bible and this is where it happened – the childhood home of Mary in Nazareth. The remains of her home are now preserved in the crypt of the Church of the Annunciation. This magnificent church pays homage to the humble maiden whose singular act of obedience changed the course of our faith – from its Madonna Lily-shaped dome to the floor-to-ceiling icons made and donated by different nations that adorn its lofty walls. It is awe-inspiring.

Images of Mary on the walls of the upper church

Awe changed to gratitude upon my descent to the lower church, to the Grotto of the Annunciation where the Archangel Gabriel appeared to Mary.  The altar in the middle contains this inscription: “Verbum Caro Hic Factum Est” (The Word was made flesh here). As I prayed in front of the grilled gate that protects the room, I thanked our Blessed Mother for her willingness to be God’s vessel. What our tour guide said rang true for me: this is why she is so well-loved by Catholics. We honor her for her role in man’s redemption.

Grotto of the Annunciation

Out in the courtyard, we viewed the Gallery of Madonnas. Like those in the upper church, the icons were mostly mosaics depicting Marian devotions from around the globe. Our group had a “proud to be Filipino” moment. Right by the entrance gate across the main door is a beautiful mural from the Philippines.

Mural from the Philippines
Courtyard Gallery of Madonnas

Just a short distance away from the Church of the Annunciation is the much smaller and somber Church of St. Joseph or the Church of St. Joseph’s Carpentry. It is built over the remains of the Church of Nutrition, a Crusader church, and over a cave system. In its crypt is the House of the Holy Family where it is believed they lived after their return from Egypt.

House of the Holy Family

The stained-glass windows depict scenes in the life of St. Joseph like his marriage to Mary.

Marriage of Mary & Joseph
Stained glass window at the Church of St. Joseph

 

It also displayed paintings of the Holy Family’s life. I was particularly charmed by the one with the young Jesus helping Joseph in his carpentry shop.

Holy Family in Joseph's Carpentry Shop

Then she said, “Please.”

 

If Mary’s first of seven words recorded in the bible were spoken at her house, her last two were spoken at our next stop, in Cana.

 “They have no more wine.” “Do whatever he tells you.”

 These verses are part of the gospel of John 2:1-11 the whole of which is inscribed on the walls along the road leading to the Wedding Church.

 

Walls in Cana 

It was not yet His time, but the dutiful son succumbed to His mother’s “Please”. Though unspoken in the bible, there must have been some form of “please” from her. The Wedding at Cana episode in The Chosen portrayed this beautifully. I always play that scene in my head every time I ask Mama Mary to intercede for my petitions. Jesus just can’t say “No” to her. Mary’s words also remind me to follow whatever Jesus tells me to do in any circumstance.

The Cana experience would not be complete without a wedding, so we had one. It was really a renewal of vows for the two couples in our group. We also got to see the jars that may have been like the ones Jesus asked to be filled with water.

 

Wedding Church

After lunch in Haifa, we visited Stella Maris Church where there was a memorial for Elijah, a venerated cave under the altar. 

Stella Maris Church

Across the church is the San Francisco Observatory. It was to this area Elijah sent his servant to look for clouds during the drought. We had a sweeping view of the Mediterranean at a spot where he could have stayed to look for a sign of rain.

 

View of the Mediterranean from Haifa

Mt. Tabor at dusk was our last stop for Day 4 of our pilgrimage. I’m glad we were there at the last hour. Aside from having less people around, the church awash with light was a sight to behold.

Basilica of  Transfiguration

 

It was at the Basilica of Transfiguration that I had my second “tracing Jesus’ footsteps” moment. At its crypt is an altar and fragments of a wall of a Byzantine church. Tradition holds that the rock floor is where Jesus stood during the Transfiguration. Our preacher, Bro Arun Gogna said Jesus knew the horrible death He was facing. Letting his apostles witness the transfiguration was His way of giving them hope.

Crypt of the Basilica of Transfiguration

Holy Land Pilgrimage: Sailing the Sea of Galilee

 

It’s not every day, not even every year, that you’d get to be where the Son of God displayed He was Lord of all. What a privilege it was to be on a boat crossing the Sea of Galilee where Jesus calmed the storm. That was the highlight of Day 3 of our pilgrimage. The boat stopped right in the middle of the sea and Bro Arun Gogna gave this talk after he read from Mark 4:35-41:

 

“Storms in the Sea of Galilee occur very quickly just as they happen in our lives. In this reading, God is sleeping through the strongest storm in the New Testament. The purpose of the storm is to steal your awe. When Jesus calmed the storm, the apostles returned the awe to the one it really belongs to, the one who has control over it. Storms happen even if Jesus is with you. Every time we enter a trial, Jesus is there. Following Jesus, even when there is a storm, brings inner peace.”

 

It was Papa’s dream come true – to be at the exact location of one of his favorite bible stories so he asked for the chance to share his own reflection:

 

“Because of its geological situation, violent storms commonly happen in the Sea of Galilee. It was during one of these tempests when the apostles feared for their lives as Jesus slept. When they woke Him up, He calmed the storm. God never promised us a problem-free life when we follow Him. His assurance is we will arrive safely at our destination.”

 

Reflections on Jesus Calming the Storm

After disembarking from the boat at the Capernaum National Park, we visited the Yigal Allon Centre, a museum in Kibbutz Ginosar.

 

Yigal Allon Centre in Kibbutz Ginosar

The museum houses the ancient Galilee Boat also known as the Jesus Boat. It is a wooden fishing boat from the 1^st century believed to have the same dimensions as the one Jesus sailed on in the Sea of Galilee.

 

Ancient Galilee Boat or the Jesus Boat

It wasn’t that big so I can just imagine the fear of the disciples when they were hit by a violent storm at sea. And imagine their awe when the storm stopped at Jesus’ command. For someone like me who succumbs easily to sea sickness, I can envision not just their relief but also their gratitude Jesus is there through our storms.

The last site we visited for the day also lies on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, Capharnaum (K’far Nahum – Village of Nahum or Capernaum), the Town of Jesus, as they call it.

 

Capharnaum, the Town of Jesus

There we saw the Synagogue of Capharnaum, ruins of a late 4^th century A.D. building also called the White Synagogue which is built upon the remains of the Synagogue of Jesus.

 

Synagogue of Capharnaum

Further down the street from the synagogue is St. Peter’s Church (also called the Pilgrimage Church of St. Peter), a modern hexagonal Franciscan church. Beneath this church are the archeological remains of a first century structure believed to be the House of St. Peter, the home of Jesus while He was in Capharnaum. The site is revered as “the first church in the world”.

 

Franciscan Church of St. Peter with the
archeological remains of the House of St. Peter 

Walking through the ruins was taking a step back in history, to a time when Jesus walked around this town.

Holy Land Pilgrimage: The Chosen Roadmap

 The Christian Triangle

 

Church of the Primacy of St. Peter, one of the churches in the Christian Triangle

I’m a huge fan of The Chosen, this phenomenal multi-season series about the life of Jesus and the disciples He hand-picked to follow Him. It has made Jesus so much more relatable and real to me. During mass, I would recall scenes from The Chosen mentioned in the gospel. The bible passages then come alive. They also become more vivid because I had seen those places during our pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

 

The last episode of Season 2 of The Chosen was about preparations for the Sermon on the Mount. The most touching scene for me was when Jesus told Matthew how the Beatitudes relate to his disciples and that it’s a roadmap for us to find Him. While watching that episode, I remembered Bro Arun Gogna giving us a short talk about Jesus’ sermon right on the site where it happened. It was our modern-day Sermon on the Mount.

Feast Builder Arun Gogna giving pilgrims a short sermon on Mount of Beatitudes

The Mount of Beatitudes (also known as Mount Eremos) lies on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee. Our tour guide said the Church of the Beatitudes is one of the three churches that form the Christian Triangle. The church's floor plan is octagonal with each side representing one of the 8 Beatitudes.

The octagonal-shaped dome of the Church of Beatitudes

 

The stained-glass upper windows are inscribed with the Beatitudes in Latin. A stunning feature of the church is the alabaster and onyx arch over the altar.

Alabaster & onyx arch over the altar of the Church of Beatitudes
and stained glass windows with the Beatitudes in Latin

 

The second church forming the Christian Triangle that we visited was the Church of the Multiplication of Loaves and Fishes in the Tabgha (Ein Sheva) area. It is traditionally known as the place where Jesus fed the 5,000.

Church of the Multiplication of Loaves & Fishes in Tabgha, Israel

 

Under its altar is a block of limestone venerated as the “Table of the Lord”. On the altar floor is a 5^th century mosaic of 2 fishes flanking a basket of bread.

Limestone Table of the Lord & 5th century mosaic of basket of bread
flanked by 2 fishes at the Altar of the Church of Multiplication

Allow me to tell a side story on how this miracle impacts my faith journey. Dallas Jenkins, creator of The Chosen, told his story about the lowest point in his career and the two impressions from God his wife received at that time: the Miracle of the Feeding of the 5,000 and “I do impossible Math”. Out of the blue, a Facebook friend he did not know very well sent him this message: “Remember your job is not to feed the 5,000 it’s only to provide the loaves and fish.” Every time I feel my abilities are inadequate for the things I need to do, I always anchor on this statement and simply rely on God’s impossible Math. I trust God will take care of the 5,000.

 

From the site of the Feeding of the 5,000, we went to where the resurrected Christ fed his disciples. Also in the Tabgha area is the last church in the Christian Triangle, The Church of the Primacy of St. Peter. When we entered the church, I was struck by the sight of a nun hugging the rock in front of the altar like her whole life depended on it. While everyone else merely touched the rock in prayer, she was lying on it for a deeper embrace. It was the most touching image of faith that I witnessed on our first full day in Israel.

The Mensa Christi at the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter

 

The rock, known as “Mensa Christi” (Latin for Table of Christ), was the one where Jesus built a bonfire to cook breakfast for the apostles by the Sea of Galilee. It was the third time He appeared to them after the Resurrection. The Church of the Primacy of St. Peter was built on this rock and part of it is exposed at the altar. It also marks the spot where Jesus reinstated Peter.

 

Touching that rock and dipping my fingers in the waters of the Sea of Galilee were my “tracing Jesus’ footsteps” moments that day. I was where my Lord was, I felt what His hands have touched.

Pilgrims on  the rocky shore of the Sea of Galilee