#AHaLoInEurope: Óbidos – A Queen’s Bounty

Traveling broadens your horizon. It enriches your mind and your spirit. But traveling uses up a lot of your time and treasure. It would be a waste if you missed something on your trip you should’ve seen or experienced. It happened to me several times and I regretted that so much. If you’re planning a trip, I’d like to help you avoid missing out. So, let my blog show you what to look out for. Prepare for your trip by traveling with me through this post. Or you might still be in the praying and dreaming stage. Manifesting your dream into reality starts here!

A Happy Solo in Óbidos, Portugal

 

Can anything evoke imaginings of medieval days more than a village favored by queens? A walled town with a towering castle. Winding streets bursting with colors.

 

Picturesque little shops tempting you to sample their wares.

 

Radiant blooms

 

and quaint curios adding rustic beauty to its cobbled lanes.

 

Such is Óbidos, the Vila das Rainhas (Town of the Queens), A UNESCO Creative City and voted as one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. This walled town is one of the best-preserved in Europe and the finest model of a traditional Portuguese village. It dates back to the Celtic period. What adds to its appeal is its authenticity. Around a hundred inhabitants still practice their craft and live in the pretty, blue or yellow-bordered, white-washed houses within the walled district and 3,000 in the town proper.

 

From the Celts to the Romans, to the Visigoths, to the Moors, Óbidos was finally conquered by the Portuguese in the 12^th century. In 1282, the soon-to-be queen Isabel de Aragon expressed admiration for its beauty. Because of that, King Dinis gifted her with Óbidos for their wedding. Since then, it has been the exclusive property of the Queens of Portugal until 1883.

 

Let’s discover what the queens found enchanting here and what you should look out for when it’s your time to visit the town their majesties have graced.

 

Stepping off the bus, I already felt the old-world magic of Óbidos beguiling me.

 

After a short walk, we reached the ancient walls that encircle the whole town and entered through Porta da Vila, the main town gate.

 

Keep your eyes peeled as you enter the gate. Just inside it is a balcony decorated with the iconic azulejos. The blue and white tiles from 1740 depicts the Passion of Christ. Its painted ceiling features a crown of thorns. This niche between the outer and inner walls serves as an oratory, a small chapel.

 

You can walk over the 13-meter high battlements encircling the town for panoramic views if you’re adventurous enough or have the time or don't have vertigo. The steps are immediately to the left of Porta da Vila. As for us, we headed straight to Rua Direita, the main and only real street of the town.

 

The main street is lined with postcard-pretty flowers, galleries, shops and cafés.

 

This tops my list of the best shopping streets that I have ever strolled through in all my travels. Not because it offered bargains and must-have items but because it exuded charm with a capital C. I actually didn’t even go on a buying spree and just purchased one special item, but I had a wonderful time soaking up the ambiance.

 

I suggest taking a leisurely walk up Rua Direita. Try to notice the arty-crafty things that you'll encounter along the way.

 

Turning from the busy main street into a quiet alley led us to the tree-covered Praça de Santa Maria (Saint Mary Square) where the town’s main church is located.

For pilgrims and plain tourists alike, the Igreja de Santa Maria (Church of Saint Mary)

 

is a must-visit because of its interior: it’s azulejos-lined walls and painted ceiling dating from the late 1600s,

 

the fine Baroque retábulo,

 

valuable paintings especially the one on the right side-altar depicting the “Martyrdom and Life of St. Catherine of Alexandria" by the renowned artist Josefa de Óbidos.

 

And don’t miss the nobleman’s tomb on the left side of the altar which is a masterpiece from the Portuguese Renaissance period dated 1525. It was completely carved from stone and is protected as a National Monument.

 

Uphill (don’t worry, it’s not a steep climb) is another church, the Igreja de São Tiago (Church of St. James) which is now a bookstore, the Livraria de Santiago. 

It’s sad that it’s no longer used as a church. In our last pilgrimage, our leader made the comment that fewer people are going to European churches to attend mass. Many just come as tourists. Or maybe Óbidos just had too many churches for its small population. There are two other churches and a chapel we didn’t have time to see.  

 

Crowning our tour, atop the hill, is Castelo de Óbidos. This castle has been used as a military fortification since the Roman occupation. It also functioned as a royal palace and is one of Portugal’s greatest medieval castles. The main building where the king’s room was located now houses a pousada  (in Portugal, a luxury hotel in a restored historic building). I wish we could’ve spent the night there. Or would that be too scary with ghostly royals keeping you company?

 

One of the things that you absolutely must try is the Ginja de Óbidos or ginjinha, a cherry liqueur served in chocolate cups. It was concocted by 17^th century monks who steeped Morello cherries in brandy.  It’s sold in many stores in Rua Direita and costs 1 Euro for a shot.

 

Chocolate and cherry! I didn’t let that experience pass me by – drinking the delicious liqueur then eating the cup. That was my one special purchase I previously mentioned. My roommate Leni and I each bought a set of 10 cups with a small bottle so our families can enjoy it for the Christmas holidays. (Best refrigerated till you’re ready to drink it.)

 

Last suggestion: after you exit the town gate, go across the street from the Tourist Center  to view the Aqueduto de Óbidos. This aqueduct streamed drinking water from a spring in Usseira over 3 kms. of vineyards and orchards to the town’s fountains. It’s not as impressive as the one we would later see in Segovia but it’s picture-pretty enough.

 

Óbidos not only charmed me but also stirred my artistic passion. It was sparked by a sight I beheld as we meandered along Rua Direita – a single white calla lily holding court like a queen amidst a foliage of green framed by a saffron yellow wall that just captivated me.

 

I painted that snapshot in watercolor and named it “Rainha Lírio de Óbidos” (Queen Lily of Óbidos). It’s the best souvenir I can ever have of “The Wedding Present Town” (another name by which Óbidos is known).

Óbidos was not in my bucket list but I’m so blessed the Lord brought me here. God’s bucket list for me is way better than my own.